Stitching and gluing the bottom:
Now that all the "frames" are in place, we stitched the bottom of the hull into place. Instead of using epoxy to glue the panels in place we used Lepage's Bulldog Grip ® PL Premium Polyurethane adhesive.
This adhesive is waterproof, weatherproof and is sandable and paintable. At only $3.50/CDN per tube it is considerable less expensive than epoxy. However, if you want to use epoxy it is available at boatbuildercentral.com at a very reasonable price.
To attache the hull bottoms we flipped the boat up onto a pair of sawhorses and stitched the bottom in place using wires or zip ties. Once we wired the bottom in place and had the sides faired up, we caulked the inside and outside of the boat.
It should be mentioned that while the caulking should be liberally applied, it does expand. This caulking is particularly strong, and it could take alot of sanding to fair up - tedious dusty sanding!! It will save time if you have a trowel, or plastic applicators like you would use for putty/autobody work, to help smooth the caulking and remove excess material before it hardens.
Also, if this stuff if it gets on your hands is likely to stain them for days, and even weeks. In working with this particular caulking it is adviseable to use nitrile gloves. It will make cleanup alot easier. This caulking can only be removed by mineral spirits, so use clothes that you are willing to sacrifice. Once it dries on anything, it won't come off.. this is some tough adhesive!!
Bottom being stitched in place prior to gluing
Attaching the Brig Sides
Once you have allowed the caulking to drive overnight, the next step is to flip the boat back over and attach the "brig" sides. We did this by attaching them to a 3" x 3" plywood panel placed on the inside of the hull. These panels also serve as reinforced"mounts" for the braces and sheet cleats. Once we screwed the "brig panels" into the "mounts" we reinforced the sides by caulking the seam. We later reinforce this with fibreglass tape, on the outside of the seam.
Once the caulking dries (24 hours),
attach the "brig" modified stern side by screwing it into the stern plate
and the 3" x 3" plywood "mounting" panels
This shows the inside of the brig sten sides attached
Once both stern sides are in place, then it is time to attch the "false" stern backing. This will help hide and propulsion devices and give the brig its character shape.
The brig with both sides and false stern attached.
We used a piece of 2" x 2" in each corner where the "false" stern meets the brig sides to help reinforce the joint. This can be cut the full length of the brig side and stern (approx 4" long), or cut down to allow "through" mounting of an eyebolt. These 2"x2" also serve as mounting points for rigging eyes...
2"x 2" Corner Reinforcement (Note this is full length)
Top-Down view on corner reinforcement (this is a 1/4 size length for through mounting)
Side-view showing eye-bolt
Another view of reinforcement
The final step is to attach the bow sides in the same fashion as the stern sides.
The stern attached and the bow brig sides.
Everything is in place. Ready for the next step!